Disclosure: Fency Music, linked on this page, is our sister store. Liverpool Music does not currently earn affiliate commission from any retailer mentioned here.
Most budget guitars are better than they feel out of the box. Factory setups are often rushed, so a perfectly good £150 guitar can arrive with strings sitting too high, a neck that needs adjusting and notes that go out of tune higher up. New players blame themselves, or the guitar, and some give up. In many cases, half an hour of careful adjustment would have fixed it.
I am a songwriter, and I build FencyGuitar, a guitar learning app, and the most common reason I see people struggle early on is a guitar that is simply hard to play. This guide explains what a setup is, the tools you need, and each step in order, with UK prices checked on 25 October 2026. It also tells you which jobs to leave to a professional.
The Quick Answer
| Step | Difficulty | Do it yourself? |
|---|---|---|
| Fresh strings and tuning | Easy | Yes |
| Neck relief (truss rod) | Moderate | Yes, carefully, in small turns |
| Action (string height) | Easy to moderate | Yes on electrics, harder on acoustics |
| Pickup height | Easy | Yes |
| Intonation | Moderate | Yes on most electrics |
| Nut slots | Hard | Usually a job for a technician |
| Fret levelling and dressing | Hard | Leave it to a technician |
Do the steps in this order. Each one affects the next, so adjusting the action before the neck relief, for example, means you will end up doing it twice.
What a Setup Actually Does
A setup adjusts the guitar so the strings sit at a comfortable height, the neck has the right amount of curve, and every note plays in tune along the fingerboard. It does not change the wood, the pickups or the hardware. It simply makes what you already have work properly.
On a cheap guitar, the difference can be dramatic. Lower action makes chords easier to hold and bends easier to play. Correct intonation means chords higher up the neck sound in tune. Smooth fret ends stop your hand catching as you move. If you are deciding between a budget guitar and a more expensive one, our Squier vs Epiphone comparison explains why a well set up budget guitar often plays better than an expensive one that has not been touched.
Tools You Need
You do not need a workshop. A basic kit covers most of the job:
A tuner, either clip on or in your amp or app.
A capo to hold the strings down while you check neck relief. Any basic trigger capo works; our guide to the best guitar capos covers the options.
The correct truss rod key for your guitar. Most guitars come with one; check the size before you start.
Small screwdrivers and Allen keys for saddles and pickups.
A steel rule that measures in half millimetres, or a dedicated string action gauge.
Feeler gauges for measuring neck relief accurately.
A string winder and cutters for string changes.
You can buy tools individually or as a kit. The Dunlop System 65 Guitar Tech Kit was £36.99 at guitarguitar. Fency Music, our sister store, carries a 72 piece guitar maintenance tool kit that includes a string action ruler, feeler gauge, understring radius gauges, Allen keys, a string winder and cutters, plus files for later fret work.
Step 1: Fresh Strings and Tuning
Start with new strings in the gauge you plan to use. String gauge affects neck tension, so changing gauge later can undo your setup. Stretch the new strings gently and retune several times until they hold pitch.
Tune to pitch before every measurement. All the adjustments below assume the guitar is under normal string tension.
Step 2: Check and Adjust Neck Relief
Necks are designed to have a tiny forward bow, called relief, so the strings can vibrate without buzzing. Too much relief makes the action high in the middle of the neck. Too little, or a backward bow, causes buzzing on the lower frets.
To check it: put a capo on the first fret. Press the low E string down at the fret where the neck joins the body. Now look at the gap between the string and the top of the 7th or 8th fret. A small gap, about the thickness of a business card, is a common starting point for electric guitars. Feeler gauges let you measure it more precisely.
To adjust it: the truss rod controls relief. On most guitars, turning the truss rod nut clockwise, as seen from the nut end, tightens it and reduces relief. Anticlockwise loosens it and adds relief.
Make small adjustments, no more than a quarter turn at a time. Retune, let the neck settle for a few minutes, and measure again. If the nut feels very stiff or will not turn, stop. Forcing a truss rod can break it, and that is an expensive repair.
Step 3: Set the Action
Action is the height of the strings above the frets, measured at the 12th fret from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string.
On electric guitars, a common starting point is around 1.5mm to 2mm on the high E string and slightly higher on the low E. Players with a light touch can go lower; heavy pickers may want a little higher to avoid buzzing.
On a Strat style guitar, each saddle has two small height screws. On a Les Paul style guitar, the whole bridge is raised and lowered with thumbwheels at each end; our Gibson vs Epiphone Les Paul comparison explains why a well set up Epiphone can feel surprisingly close to a Gibson. Make small adjustments, retune, and play every fret on every string, listening for buzzing.
On acoustic guitars, action is set by the saddle height, which usually means sanding the bottom of the saddle to lower it. This cannot easily be undone, so if you are not confident, leave it to a technician.
Step 4: Check the Nut
The nut affects how easy the first few frets are to play. If the slots are cut too high, chords near the headstock feel stiff and notes go sharp.
To check, press each string down between the second and third frets, then look at the gap between the string and the first fret. There should be a very small gap. If there is a large gap, the nut slots may be too high. If strings stick in the nut and tuning jumps when you bend, the slots may need lubricating or smoothing.
Cutting nut slots is precise work, and going too deep means replacing the nut. For most players, this is the one adjustment worth paying a technician for.
Step 5: Set Pickup Height
Pickups that sit too close to the strings can sound harsh and, on single coils, can pull the strings out of tune. Pickups that sit too far away sound weak.
Press each outer string down at the last fret and measure the gap to the top of the pickup. A common starting point is a few millimetres, slightly further on the bass side than the treble side. Adjust with the screws either side of each pickup, then balance the volume between pickups by ear.
Step 6: Set Intonation
Intonation makes sure notes higher up the neck are in tune. You check it by comparing the harmonic at the 12th fret with the fretted note at the 12th fret.
Tune the open string.
Play the 12th fret harmonic and check it is in tune.
Play the fretted note at the 12th fret.
If the fretted note is sharp, move that string's saddle back, away from the neck. If it is flat, move it forward, towards the neck.
Retune and repeat until both match.
On most electric guitars, each saddle has an intonation screw at the back of the bridge. Change strings before setting intonation, because old strings intonate poorly.
Step 7: Finishing Touches
Fret ends. In dry UK winters, the fingerboard can shrink slightly and leave sharp fret ends. Smoothing them takes care and the right files; a technician can do it quickly.
Electronics. Crackling volume and tone controls usually just need a contact cleaner.
Fingerboard. Clean and condition unfinished rosewood or laurel fingerboards occasionally. Maple fingerboards with a finish just need wiping.
Strap buttons and jack. Tighten anything loose.
Headless and travel guitars. These tune at the bridge and often use different saddle designs, so check the maker's instructions. Our best travel guitars roundup covers several headless models.
Acoustic and Nylon Guitar Differences
Acoustic guitars follow the same order, with a few differences. Neck relief is adjusted the same way on most steel string acoustics, often through the soundhole. Action is set at the saddle, which usually means sanding, and intonation is largely fixed by the bridge position. Humidity matters more on solid wood acoustics, so check relief again when the seasons change.
Many classical guitars have no adjustable truss rod at all, so setup is mostly about saddle and nut height. Crossover nylon guitars often do have a truss rod; our guide to nylon string guitars for steel string players explains the differences. For small steel string acoustics such as the Taylor GS Mini and Martin LX1E, our Taylor GS Mini vs Martin LX1E comparison includes string and setup tips specific to short scales.
When to Pay a Professional
A technician is worth it for nut slots, fret levelling and dressing, acoustic saddle work, stuck or broken truss rods, and any guitar with a structural problem. A full setup at a UK shop or independent technician typically costs somewhere around £40 to £60, more for fret work or acoustic repairs. Some shops include a basic setup when you buy a guitar from them, so ask before you pay.
If you have just bought a used guitar, a professional setup is often the best money you can spend on it. Our guide to buying a used guitar in the UK explains what to check before you buy.
What I Don't Like About DIY Setups
It is easy to chase your tail. Adjusting things out of order, or making big changes at once, can leave you worse off than when you started.
Some mistakes cannot be undone. Over sanding a saddle or cutting a nut slot too deep means replacing the part.
Tools add up. If you will only do one setup, a technician may cost less than a full tool kit.
Results depend on the guitar. A setup cannot fix badly levelled frets, a twisted neck or a warped fingerboard.
Who Should Skip a DIY Setup
Owners of valuable or vintage guitars. The risk is not worth it.
Anyone whose guitar has buzzing that a relief and action adjustment does not fix. That often means uneven frets, which need professional work.
Players who would rather spend the time playing. A good technician is quick and affordable, and you will learn a lot by asking what they adjusted.
Keeping Your Setup Stable
Once your guitar plays well, a few habits keep it that way. Store it away from radiators and cold outside walls, because big changes in temperature and humidity move the neck. Stick to the same string brand and gauge so tension stays consistent. Check relief and tuning when the seasons change, especially when the heating goes on in autumn. A well set up guitar also records better, because it stays in tune from take to take; our guide to recording guitar at home has more on getting clean takes.
FAQ
How much does a guitar setup cost in the UK?
A standard guitar setup in the UK typically costs around £40 to £60 at a guitar shop or independent technician. Fret work, nut replacement and acoustic saddle adjustments usually cost extra. Some retailers include a basic setup when you buy a guitar, so it is worth asking before booking one separately.
Can I set up my own guitar?
Yes, you can set up your own guitar if you work carefully and in the right order: strings, neck relief, action, pickup height, then intonation. Small, gradual adjustments are the key. Leave nut slot cutting, fret levelling and acoustic saddle sanding to a technician unless you have experience.
How often should a guitar be set up?
Most guitars benefit from a check once or twice a year, often when the seasons change and humidity shifts. You should also adjust the setup when you change string gauge, notice new buzzing, or find the action has crept up. A quick relief and tuning check takes only a few minutes.
Is it safe to adjust the truss rod?
Adjusting the truss rod is safe if you make small turns, no more than a quarter turn at a time, and let the neck settle before measuring again. Never force a nut that feels stuck. If it will not turn smoothly, stop and take the guitar to a technician to avoid breaking the rod.
Why does my guitar buzz after a setup?
Buzzing after a setup usually means the action is too low or the neck relief is too flat for your playing style. Raise the action slightly or add a little relief. If one or two frets still buzz, the frets may be uneven, which needs professional levelling rather than further adjustment.
The Bottom End
A setup is the cheapest upgrade any guitar can have, and it matters most on budget instruments. Work in order, make small changes, measure carefully, and you can make a cheap guitar far more comfortable and in tune in an afternoon. Know your limits: nut slots, fret work and acoustic saddles are jobs for a technician, and for around £40 to £60 a professional setup is often money well spent. Either way, a guitar that plays easily is one you will pick up more often, and that is what really makes you better.
